La Maddalena

Just a short drive from La Maddalena town, Isola Giardinelli is a small peninsula connected by a narrow bridge. Once you cross it, you’ll find the first parking area – from there you can either continue by car towards Parcheggio Testa del Polpo or, better yet, go on foot. The walk itself is worth it: you’ll pass granite rocks, small pines and quiet bays that make you slow down. If you can, plan a full day for Giardinelli.

We spent an afternoon there and stopped at Spiaggia dell’Alberello, a small beach with shallow, crystal-clear water. Perfect for snorkeling and climbing over the rocks. Every now and then a campervan or a few tourists passed by – otherwise we almost had the bay to ourselves. The water was mirror-smooth and, even in October, refreshing enough for a good swim. Those who have time (and energy) should explore the peninsula by kayak or small boat.

If you walk further north, you’ll reach Capocchia d’ù Purpu, the island’s most famous rock formation. There’s no real trail – you’ll have to climb a bit, but it’s manageable even with small backpacks or kids. From there the view is incredible, stretching across the turquoise sea below.

Before you go, take a bit of time to plan your route – not because Giardinelli is big, but because there’s simply too much beauty packed into one small place. Between the granite rocks, the quiet coves and the clear water, it’s easy to lose track of time and just drift.

If you’re visiting just for a day, here’s how we’d do it again – our personal route that made us fall in love with this tiny, unforgettable corner of La Maddalena.

Crossing the narrow dam from La Maddalena feels like entering another world. Caprera is almost untouched — no towns, few buildings, and a landscape that seems to belong entirely to nature. The island offers hiking trails, breathtaking viewpoints, and hidden coves that feel miles away from everything else.

We spent an afternoon at Cala degli Inglesi, a small bay in the south that you can easily reach by car. Parking was simple and there were hardly any people. At the end of the beach, the smooth granite rocks reach out into the sea — you can swim around them and climb the stones. The water here is shallow but not too flat, perfect for swimming and snorkeling. In the late afternoon, the light turns golden and calm — an ideal spot to stay until sunset.

Later, we drove up the scenic Sentiero Monte Tejalone, a narrow, winding road that offers stunning views over western Caprera and across to the main island. Up there, you truly sense how quiet and vast this place is — you might meet a few wild goats, but not many people. It’s a paradise for short hikes, photography and slowing down.

If you have time, plan two to three full days on Caprera. Parking is easy along most roads, though the unpaved sections can be a bit adventurous.
We would have loved to visit Opera Poggio, Spiaggia di Cala Brigantina and Cala Napoletana — both known for their remoteness and crystal water. Next time, they’re definitely on our list.

Keep in mind: There are a few mobile restaurants on Caprera, but almost no fixed infrastructure — so better bring enough food and water. For some trails, hiking shoes are a good idea. Parking is, like mostly on La Maddalena, free and easy, but the unpaved roads can get rough.

The town of La Maddalena is small, lively and full of charm. Its narrow cobblestone streets wind between pastel-colored houses, small balconies with drying laundry and the smell of espresso from cafés on every corner. Even though many shops and restaurants cater to visitors, the town has managed to keep its authentic feel — the rhythm is calm, the people friendly, and you’ll never feel unsafe wandering around. The architecture is simple and warm: tall stone houses, old doorways, and quiet piazzas shaded by palm trees. In the center stands the Church of Saint Mary Magdalene, the town’s heart and namesake. The building may look modest from outside, but step inside and you’ll find cool air, soft light and hand-carved wooden details that tell stories of faith and seafaring.

Down by the harbour, the streets open up to colorful boats and a relaxed waterfront promenade. Here, locals and travellers mix naturally — some sipping coffee, others shopping for fruit, fresh fish or handmade souvenirs in the little stores nearby. It’s a perfect place to pause, people-watch and take in the slow pace that defines the island.

A small walk (or short drive) leads toward Isola Chiesa, a tiny islet connected by a narrow bridge. From there you get wide-open views across the water and back to the town — especially beautiful in the evening light. And if you have a car, it’s worth taking a drive straight through the town from east to west or the other way around. It’s an adventure in itself: narrow passages, stone arches, sudden glimpses of the sea between the houses. Whether you stay for a few hours, return for short visits, or even choose to base yourself here — La Maddalena town always rewards you with a new angle and a calm, genuine island feeling.